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F] Principles of Protection: U. F] Ready, Set, Tow! F] Silent Spring Full Pages. F] Silent Spring Read Online. F] Thunderstruck Read Online. Start by shutting off the electrical power to the dishwasher circuit at the service panel. Also, turn off the water supply at the shutoff valve, usually located directly under the oor.
Disconnect old plumbing connections. First unscrew the front access panel. Once the access panel is removed, disconnect the water supply line from the L-tting on the bottom of the unit.
This is usually a brass compression tting, so just turning the compression nut counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench should do the trick. Use a bowl to catch any water that might leak out when the nut is removed. Disconnect old wiring connections.
The dishwasher has an integral electrical box at the front of the unit where the power cable is attached to the dishwashers xture wires. Take off the box cover and remove the wire connectors that join the wires together.
Disconnect the discharge hose, which is usually connected to the dishwasher port on the side of the garbage disposer. To remove it, just loosen the screw on the hose clamp and pull it off. You may need to push this hose back through a hole in the cabinet wall and into the dishwasher compartment so it wont get caught when you pull the dishwasher out.
Detach the unit surrounding cabinets before you pull out the unit. Remove the screws that hold the brackets to the underside of the countertop. Then put a piece of cardboard or old carpet under the front legs to protect the oor from getting scratched, and pull the dishwasher out. First, prepare the new dishwasher. Tip it on its back and attach the new L-tting into the threaded port on the solenoid.
Apply some Teon tape or pipe sealant to the tting threads before tightening it in place to prevent possible leaks. Attach a length of new automotive heater hose, usually 5 8" diameter, to the end of the dishwashers discharge hose nipple with a hose clamp. The new hose you are adding should be long enough to reach from the discharge nipple to the port on the side of the kitchen sink garbage disposer. Prepare for the wiring connections. Like the old dishwasher, the new one will have an integral electrical box for making the wiring connections.
To gain access to the box, just remove the box cover. Then install a cable connector on the back of the box and bring the power cable from the service panel through this connector. Power should be shut off at the main service panel at all times. Install a leveling leg at each of the four corners while the new dishwasher is still on its back. Just turn the legs into the threaded holes designed for them. Leave about 12" of each leg projecting from the bottom of the unit.
These will have to be adjusted later to level the appliance. Tip the appliance up onto the feet and slide it into the opening. Check for level in both directions and adjust the feet as required. Once the dishwasher is level, attach the brackets to the underside of the countertop to keep the appliance from moving. Then pull the discharge hose into the sink cabinet and install it so theres a loop that is attached with a bracket to the underside of the countertop.
This loop prevents waste water from owing from the disposer back into the dishwasher. If the discharge hose has to be modied to t onto the disposer port, rst insert a 4"-long piece of 12" copper tubing into the hose and hold it in place with a hose clamp. This provides a nipple for the rubber adapter that ts onto the disposer. Clamp the rubber disposer adapter to the end of the copper tubing nipple. Then tighten the hose clamp securely. Push the adapter over the disposers discharge nipple and tighten it in place with a hose clamp.
If you dont have a disposer, this discharge hose can be clamped directly to a modied sink tailpiece thats installed below a standard sink strainer. Adjust the L-tting on the dishwashers water inlet valve until it points directly toward the water supply tubing. Then lubricate the threads slightly with a drop of dishwashing liquid and tighten the tubings compression nut onto the tting. Use an adjustable wrench and turn the nut clockwise.
Complete the electrical connections by tightening the connectors clamp on the cable and then join the power wires to the xture wires with wire connectors. Attach the ground wire or wires to the grounding screw on the box, and replace the cover. Install the access panel, usually by hooking it on a couple of prongs just below the dishwashers door. Install the screws if any that hold it in place, and turn on the water and power supplies.
Replace the toe-kick panel at the bottom of the dishwasher. Food Disposers ood disposers are standard equipment in the modern home, and most of us have come to depend on them to macerate our plate leavings and crumbs so they can exit the house along with waste water from the sink drain. If your existing disposer needs replacing, youll nd that the job is relatively simple, especially if you select a replacement appliance that is the same model as the old one.
In that case, you can probably reuse the existing mounting assembly, drain sleeve, and drain plumbing. Let go of the switch, and the disposer stops. Each appliance has a power rating between 13 and 1 HP horsepower. More powerful models bog down less under load and the motors last longer because they dont have to work as hard. They are also costlier. Disposers are hardwired to a switch mounted in an electrical box in the wall above the countertop.
If your kitchen is not equipped for this, consult a wiring guide or hire an electrician. The actual electrical hookup of the appliance is quite simple you only have to join two wires but do hire an electrician if you are not comfortable with the job.
A properly functioning food disposer thats used correctly can actually help reduce clogs by ensuring that large bits of organic matter dont get into the drain system by accident. Many plumbers suggest using separate P-traps for the disposer and the drain outlet tube as shown here. The disposer is attached directly to the sink sleeve, which comes with the disposer and replaces the standard sink strainer. A snap ring ts into a groove around the sleeve of the strainer body to prevent the upper mounting ring and backup ring from sliding down while the upper mounting ring is tightened against the backup ring with mounting screws.
A ber gasket seals the connection from beneath the sink. Discharge opening Impellers. A food disposer grinds food waste so it can be ushed away through the sink drain system. A quality disposer has a 12 horsepower, self-reversing motor that will not jam. Other features to look for include foam sound insulation, a grinding ring, and overload protection that allow the motor to be reset if it overheats. Better food disposers have a 5-year manufacturer's warranty.
Kitchen and drain tees are required to have a bafe if the tee is connected to a dishwasher or disposer. The bafe is intended to prevent discharge from nding its way up the drain and into the sink. However, the bafe also reduces the drain ow capacity by half, which can cause the dishwasher or disposer to back up.
You cannot, by most codes, simply replace the tee with another that has no bafe. The safest way to get around the problem is to run separate drains and traps to a Y-tting at the trap arm as shown on previous page. Remove the old disposer if you have one. Youll need to disconnect the drain pipes and traps rst. If your old disposer has a special wrench for the mounting lugs, use it to loosen the lugs. Otherwise, use a screwdriver. If you do not have a helper, place a solid object directly beneath the disposer to support it before you begin removal.
Important: Shut off electrical power at the main service panel before you begin removal. Disconnect the wire leads, cap them, and stuff them into the electrical box. Alternate: If you are installing a disposer in a sink that did not previously have one, remove the old sink strainer and drain tailpiece.
Scrape up any old plumbers putty and clean the sink thoroughly around the drain opening with mineral spirits. Clear the drain lines all the way to the branch drain before you begin the new installation.
Remove the trap and trap arm rst. Disassemble the mounting assembly and then separate the upper and lower mounting rings and the backup ring. Also remove the snap ring from the sink sleeve. See photo, previous page. Press the ange of the sink sleeve for your new disposer into a thin coil of plumbers putty that you have laid around the perimeter of the drain opening.
The sleeve should be well-seated in the coil. Slip the ber gasket and then the backup ring onto the sink sleeve, working from inside the sink base cabinet. Make sure the backup ring is oriented the same way it was before you disassembled the mounting assembly. Insert the upper mounting ring onto the sleeve with the slotted ends of the screws facing away from the backup ring so you can access them.
Then, holding all three parts at the top of the sleeve, slide the snap ring onto the sleeve until it snaps into the groove. Tighten the three mounting screws on the upper mounting ring until the tips press rmly against the backup ring inset photo. It is the tension created by these screws that keeps the disposer steady and minimizes vibrating.
Make electrical connections before you mount the disposer unit on the mounting assembly. Shut off the power at the service panel if you have turned it back on.
Remove the access plate from the disposer. Attach the white and black feeder wires from the electrical box to the white and black wires respectively inside the disposer. Twist a small wire cap onto each connection and wrap it with electrical tape for good measure. Also attach the green ground wire from the box to the grounding terminal on your disposer.
Knock out the plug in the disposer port if you will be connecting your dishwasher to the disposer. If you have no dishwasher, leave the plug in.
Insert a large athead screwdriver into the port opening and rap it with a mallet. Retrieve the knock plug from inside the disposer canister. Hang the disposer from the mounting ring attached to the sink sleeve. To hang it, simply lift it up and position the unit so the three mounting ears are underneath the three mounting screws and then spin the unit so all three ears t into the mounting assembly.
Wait until after the plumbing hookups have been made to lock the unit in place. Attach the discharge tube to the disposer according to the manufacturers instructions. It is important to get a very good seal here, or the disposer will leak.
Go ahead and spin the disposer if it helps you access the discharge port. Attach a Y-tting at the drain stubout. The Y-tting should be sized to accept a drain line from the disposer and another from the sink. Adjust the sink drain plumbing as needed to get from the sink P-trap to one opening of the Y. Install a trap arm for the disposer in the open port of the Y-tting at the wall stubout.
Then, attach a P-trap or a combination of a tube extension and a P-trap so the low end of the trap will align with the bottom of the disposer discharge tube.
Spin the disposer so the end of the discharge tube is lined up over the open end of the P-trap and conrm that they will t together correctly. If the discharge tube extends down too far, mark a line on it at the top of the P-trap and cut through the line with a hacksaw. If the tube is too short, attach an extension with a slip joint.
You may need to further shorten the discharge tube rst to create enough room for the slip joint on the extension. Slide a slip nut and beveled compression washer onto the discharge tube and attach the tube to the P-trap. Connect the dishwasher discharge tube to the inlet port located at the top of the disposer unit. This may require a dishwasher hookup kit see page Lock the disposer into position on the mounting ring assembly once you have tested to make sure it is functioning correctly and without leaks.
Lock it by turning one of the mounting lugs with a screwdriver until it makes contact with the locking notch. In an ideal situation, youd replace the old unit with one of the exact same size and make, and thereby avoid having to move any gas, water, or electrical lines.
But if you choose to upgrade or downgrade in size, or perhaps replace an old electric water heater with a gas water heater that costs less to run, youll nd that relocating the necessary lines isnt that difcult.
It is a commonly held belief that a water heater should last around 10 years. The longevity depends on many factors, including initial quality, usage levels, maintenance diligence, and other miscellaneous factors such as hardness of water. While it is everyones goal to get as much use out of our major appliances as possible, it is also undeniable that the best time to replace a water heater is before it leaks and lls your basement with water.
Its a bit of a gamble, but once your old heater starts showing signs of wear and perhaps even acting up a bit, go ahead and make the change. Water heaters for primary duty in residences range in size from 30 gallons to 65 gallons. For a family of four, a or gallon model should be adequate.
While you dont want to run out of hot water every morning, you also dont want to pay to heat more water than you use. Base your choice on how well your current water heater is meeting your demand. Water heaters typically last for at least 10 years, but once they start to show signs of aging, its a good idea to replace them with a new, more efcient appliance.
The nameplate on the side of a water heater lists tank capacity, insulation R-value, and working pressure pounds per square inch. More efcient water heaters have an insulation R-value of 7 or higher. The nameplate for an electric water heater includes the voltage and the wattage capacity of the heating elements and thermostats. Water heaters also have a yellow energy guide label that lists typical yearly operating costs.
Use armored cable or wires housed in metal conduit to bring electrical power to electric water heaters. The armored cable or conduit should enter the top of the unit through a conduit clamp.
Use threaded black gas pipe to make the gas connection at the water heater. Other connectors, including exible copper or stainless steel connectors, are not allowed by some codes and are not as sturdy.
The black pipe may be supplied by other pipe materials, such as soft copper. The basic construction involves three 6" threaded nipples, a T-tting, a cap, and a union to connect to the supply line. If your house has soft copper gas supply lines, use a are tting to connect an additional threaded nipple from the black pipe assembly that connects to the water heater regulator. If you have black pipe supply lines, use a union tting like the one in the previous photo. Gas water heaters operate on either propane or natural gas and are generally very economical to run.
They do cost a bit more than electric heaters up front. The following installation features a gas water heater. Check with your local building department to nd out if homeowners are allowed to install gas appliances in your municipality. Electric water heaters require volt service, which might overload your service panel if you are replacing a gas heater with an electric model.
Their primary advantage is that they are cheaper to purchase but not to operate and they do not require that you make gas connections. Shut off the gas supply at the stopcock installed in the gas line closest to the water heater.
The handle of the stopcock should be perpendicular to the gas supply pipe. Drain the water from the old heater by hooking a garden hose up to the sillcock drain and running it to a oor drain. If you don't have a oor drain, drain the water into buckets. For your personal safety, wait until the water heater has been shut off for a couple of hours before draining it.
Disconnect the gas supply from the water heater. To do so, loosen the are tting with two wrenches or pliers in a soft copper supply line or loosen the union tting with two pipe wrenches for black pipe supply lines inset photo. Disconnect the vent pipe from the draft hood by withdrawing the sheet metal screws connecting the parts.
Also remove vent pipes up to and including the elbow so you may inspect them for corrosion buildup and replace if needed. Cut the water supply lines. Prior to cutting, shut off the cold water supply either at the stop valve near the heater or at the water meter.
Inspect the shutoff valve. If it is not a ball-type valve in new condition, replace it with a ball valve. Prepare the new water heater for installation. Make sure to read the manufacturers instructions and purchase the recommended valve type. Lubricate the threads and tighten the valve into the valve opening with a pipe wrench.
Remove the old water heater and dispose of it properly. Dont simply leave it out at the curb unless you know that is allowed by your municipal waste collection department.
A two-wheel truck or appliance dolly is a big help here. Water heaters usually weigh around pounds. Position the unit in the installation area. If you have ooring you wish to protect from leaks, set the unit on a drip pan available where water heater accessories are sold. The shallow pans feature a hose bib so you can run a drain line from the pan to a oor drain. If the water heater is not level, level it by shimming under the bottom with a metal or composite shim.
Note that youll need to shift the unit around a bit to have clearance for installing the water supply connectors step You may use either copper pipe or CPVC drain pipe.
Cut the tube so the free end is 6" above the oor. If you have oorcoverings you wish to protect, add a degree elbow and a copper drain tube that leads from the discharge tube to a oor drain. Fabricate water connectors from lengths of copper tubing, threaded copper adaptors, and plastic-lined galvanized threaded nipples. Plastic-lined nipples inset photo reduce the corrosion that can occur when you join two dissimilar metals.
Size the connector assemblies so they will end up just short of the cut copper supply tubing when the connectors are inserted into the water heater ports. Install the connectors in the cold water inlet port make sure you use the blue-coded lined nipple and the hot outlet port red-coded nipple on top of the water heater.
Lubricate the nipple threads and tighten with channel-type pliers. Slip a copper tubing repair coupling over each connector and reposition the unit so the supply pipes and connector tops align.
Join the connectors to the supply tubes with slip-tting copper repair couplings. Be sure to clean and prime the parts rst. Reassemble the vent with a new elbow tting if your old one needed replacement, see step 4, page Cut the duct that drops down from the elbow so it will t neatly over the top ange of the draft hood.
Install the parts for the black pipe gas connector assembly see photo page Use pipe dope to lubricate all joints. Attach a T-tting to one end of a 3" nipple rst and attach the other end of the nipple into the female-threaded regulator port. Attach a cap to another 6" nipple and then thread the other end into the bottom opening of the T-tting to form a drip leg. Install a third nipple in the top opening of the T-tting.
Connect the gas supply line to the open end of the gas connector. Use a union tting for black gas pipe connections and a are tting for copper supply connections. See pages 41 to 43 for more information on making these connections. Test the connections. Turn on the gas supply and test the gas connections with testing solution see page Before turning on the water supply, make sure the tank drain valve is closed.
Allow the tank to ll with water and then turn on a hot water faucet until water comes out the water wont be hot yet, of course. Visually check all plumbing joints for leaks. Light the pilot. This is usually a multi-step process that varies among manufacturers, but all new water heaters will have pilot-lighting instructions printed on a label near the water heater controls. Adjust the water temperature setting. The fuel supply connection is the only part of installing an electric water heater that differs from installing a gas heater, except that electric heaters do not require a vent.
The feeder wires volts are twisted together with mating wires in the access panel located at the top of the unit. Temperature adjustments on electric water heaters are made by tightening or loosening a thermostat adjustment screw located near the heating element.
Always shut off power to the unit before making adjustment. In this photo you can see how close the live terminals for the heating element are to the thermostat. Widespread faucets with separate spout and handles are being installed with increasing frequency, however. Because the handles are connected to the spout with ex tubes that can be 18" or longer, widespread faucets can be arranged in many ways. Bathroom sink faucets come in two basic styles: the widespread with independent handles and spout top ; and the single-body, deck-mounted version bottom.
Widespread lavatory faucets have valves that are independent from the spout so they can be congured however you choose, provided that your ex tube connectors are long enough to span the distance. Single-body lavatory faucets have both valves and the spout permanently afxed to the faucet body. They do not offer exibility in congurations, but they are very simple to install.
Hollow channel for overflow water Underside Lock of sink nut Pivot ball gasket Pivot-ball and rod. The pop-up stopper ts into the drain opening so the stopper will close tightly against the drain ange when the pop-up handle is lifted up. The linkage that connects the pop-up stopper to the pop-up handle ts into a male-threaded port in the drain tailpiece.
Occasionally the linkage will require adjustment or replacement. Insert the shank of the faucet spout through one of the holes in the sink deck usually the center hole but you can offset it in one of the end holes if you prefer. If the faucet is not equipped with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles, pack plumbers putty on the undersides before inserting the valves into the deck.
Note: If you are installing the widespread faucet in a new sink deck, drill three holes of the size suggested by the faucet manufacturer.
In addition to mounting nuts, many spout valves for widespread faucets have an open-retainer tting that goes between the underside of the deck and the mounting nut. Others have only a mounting nut. In either case, tighten the mounting nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the spout valve. You may need a helper to keep the spout centered and facing forward. Mount the valves to the deck using whichever method the manufacturer species it varies quite a bit.
In the model seen here, a mounting ring is positioned over the deck hole with plumbers putty seal and the valve is inserted from below. A clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in place temporarily youll want a helper for this.
From below, thread the mounting nuts that secure the valves to the sink deck. Make sure the cold water valve usually has a blue cartridge inside is in the right-side hole from the front and the hot water valve red cartridge is in the left hole.
Install both valves. Once youve started the nut on the threaded valve shank, secure the valve with a basin wrench, squeezing the lugs where the valve ts against the deck. Use an adjustable wrench to nish tightening the lock nut onto the valve. The valves should be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the inlet on the spout shank.
Attach the exible supply tubes supplied with the faucet to the water outlets on the valves. Some twist onto the outlets, but others like the ones above click into place. The supply hoses meet in a T-tting that is attached to the water inlet on the spout. Attach exible braided-metal supply risers to the water stop valves and then attach the tubes to the inlet port on each valve usually with Teon tape and a twist-on tting at the valve end of the supply riser.
Attach the spout. The model shown here comes with a special hex wrench that is threaded through the hole in the spout where the lift rod for the pop-up drain will be located. Once the spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank, you tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout. Different faucets will use other methods to secure the spout to the shank. If your sink did not have a pop-up stopper, youll need to replace the sink drain tailpiece with a pop-up stopper body often supplied with the faucet.
See page Insert the lift rod through the hole in the back of the spout and, from below, thread the pivot rod through the housing for the clevis screw. Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod that enters the pop-up drain body, and adjust the position of the strap so it raises and lowers properly when the lift rod is pulled up.
Tighten the clevis screw at this point. Its hard to t a screwdriver in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers. Attach the faucet handles to the valves using whichever method is required by the faucet manufacturer.
Most faucets are designed with registration methods to ensure that the handles are symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way once you secure them to the valves. Turn on the water supply and test the faucet. Remove the faucet aerator so any debris in the lines can clear the spout. Most faucets come with a plastic or foam gasket to seal the bottom of the faucet to the sink deck. These gaskets will not always form a watertight seal.
If you want to ensure no splash water gets below the sink, discard the seal and press a ring of plumbers putty into the sealant groove built into the underside of the faucet body. Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes in the sink. From below, thread washers and mounting nuts over the tailpieces, then tighten the mounting nuts with a basin wrench until snug. Put a dab of pipe joint compound on the threads of the stop valves and thread the metal nuts of the exible supply risers to these.
Wrench tighten about a half-turn past hand tight. Overtightening these nuts will strip the threads. Now tighten the coupling nuts to the faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench. Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its hole behind the spout. Thread it into the clevis past the clevis screw.
Push the pivot rod all the way down so the stopper is open. With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis to the lift rod.
Grease the uted valve stems with heatproof grease, then put the handles in place. Put a drop of Loctite on each handle screw before tightening it on. This will keep your handles from coming loose. Cover each handle screw with the appropriate index capHot or Cold. Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout. Turn the hot and cold water taps on full. Turn the water back on at the stop valves and ush out the faucet for a couple of minutes before turning off the water at the faucet.
Check the riser connections for drips. Tighten a compression nut only until the drip stops. Put a basin under the trap to catch water. Loosen the nuts at the outlet and inlet to the trap J-bend by hand or with channel-type pliers and remove the bend. The trap will slide off the pop-up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose.
Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot rod in the pop-up body and withdraw the ball. Compress the spring clip on the clevis and withdraw the pivot rod from the clevis. Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from below, remove the lock nut on the stopper body. If needed, keep the ange from turning by inserting a large screwdriver in the drain from the top. Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to free the ange from the basin, and then remove the ange and the stopper body.
Clean the drain opening above and below, and then thread the locknut all the way down the new pop-up body, followed by the at washer and the rubber gasket beveled side up. Wrap three layers of Teon tape clockwise onto the top of the threaded body. Make a 12"-dia. From below, face the pivot rod opening directly back toward the middle of the faucet and pull the body straight down to seat the ange. Do not twist the ange in the process, as this can break the putty seal.
Clean off the squeezeout of plumbers putty from around the ange. Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole so the hole at the bottom of its post is closest to the back of the sink. Put the beveled nylon washer into the opening in the back of the pop-up body with the bevel facing back.
Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod as shown. Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the spring clip and thread the long end of the pivot rod through the clip and clevis. Put the ball end of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening and into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the cap on to the pop-up body over the ball.
Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis to the lift rod. Push the pivot rod all the way down which fully opens the pop-up stopper. With the lift rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin snips.
Reassemble the J-bend trap. Shower Kits he fastest and easiest way to create a new shower in your bathroom is to frame in the stall area with lumber and wallboard and then install a shower enclosure kit. Typically consisting of three berglass or plastic walls, these enclosure kits snap together at the corners and nestle inside the anges of the shower pan to create nearly foolproof mechanical seals.
Often, the walls are formed with shelves, soap holders, and other conveniences. If you are on a tight budget, you can nd extremely inexpensive enclosure kits to keep costs down. You can even create your own custom enclosure using waterproof beadboard panels and snap-together connectors. Or, you can invest in a higher grade kit made from thicker material that will last much longer.
Some kits are sold with the receptor and perhaps even the door included. The kit shown here is designed to be attached directly to wall studs, but others require a backer wall for support. The panels are attached to the backer with high-tack panel adhesive. A paneled shower surround is inexpensive and easy to install.
Designed for alcove installations, they often are sold with matching shower pans called receptors. Mark out the location of the shower, including any new walls, on the oor and walls.
Most kits can be installed over wallboard, but you can usually achieve a more professional looking wall nish if you remove the wallcovering and oor covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials immediately and thoroughly clean the area. If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out the locations for the studs and plumbing on the new wood sill plate.
Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate that will be attached to the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs. Attach the sill plate to the oor with deck screws and panel adhesive, making sure it is square to the back wall and the correct distance from the side wall. Align a straight 2 4 right next to the sill plate and make a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to extend that line directly above the sill plate.
Attach the cap plate at that point. Install the 2 4 studs at the outlined locations. Check with a level to make sure each stud is plumb, and then attach them by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and cap plate.
Cut an access hole in the oor for the drain, according to the installation manual instructions. Drill openings in the sill plate of the wet wall the new wall in this project for the supply pipes, also according to the instructions. Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the drain pipe ush with the oor. If you are not experienced with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line. Cart 0. Back to Results. Authors Editors of Cool Springs Press. Year Publication Quayside Publishing Group.
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